The Bengal Club: Club of clubs-II

Raana Haider

Lord Macaulay was sentimentally fond of his home on Russell Street. He writes: "I have a very pretty garden not unlike our little grass plot at Clapham but larger. It consists of a fine sheet of turf, with a gravel walk round it, and flower-beds scattered over it. It looks beautiful just now after the rains, and I hear it keeps its verdure during a great part of the year. A flight of steps leads down from my library into the garden and it is so well shaded that you may walk in it till ten o'clock in the morning." His pointing out the coolness of the day is reflective of his dislike of the city's climate and he remarks sardonically: "We are annually baked four months, boiled four more, and allowed the remaining four to become cool if we can. Insects and undertakers are the only living creatures which seem to enjoy the climate."
   Renewal of the lease for twenty years took place in 1875 and again in 1895. As the British community in Calcutta expanded, so did demands on the Bengal Club. Prime land on Chowringhee Road was purchased. In 1911, the new building of Bengal Club opened for business. Ladies were invited for the Reception to mark the completion of the new Clubhouse and astonishingly 'then for close on sixteen years monasticism reigned'. Built in the Edwardian architectural style, it was ornamental in design with a central cupola and balancing turrets in the four corners. It stood at 33 Chowringhee - the finest building on Calcutta's main street. Residential rooms for members were available at the moderate rent of Rs. 4 per week. The first Steward of the Club was Thomas Payne who also provided culinary services. In addition, he conducted a private ice-making business. Payne and his brother were also owners of premises known as 'The Belatee Bungalow.' Enterprising individuals, one of the chefs of the renowned Reform Club in London in the early nineteenth century, Alexis Soya has been credited as the designer of one of the earliest gas cookers. Dhrubajyoti Banerjea provides much information on the Bengal Club and its environs in European Calcutta: Images and Recollections of a Bygone Era (2005).
   True to tradition, the 'old boys network' flourished - both at home and abroad. The Rt. Hon'ble Sir Charles Metcalfe, Bar. G.C.B. was the President of the Bengal Club from 1827-1837. Born in Calcutta, an Eton graduate, Metcalfe returned to India as an East India Company cadet. He rose to be Resident of Delhi in 1811 and of Hyderabad in 1820. Macaulay at a speech at the House of Commons spoke fervently in support of the Civil Service of India - whose recruitment should be by competitive examination - "for those that distinguished themselves early in life - continue their start to the end." Macaulay declared: "The ablest man who ever governed India was Warren Hastings and was he not in the first round at Westminster? The ablest Civil Servant I ever knew in India was Sir Charles Metcalfe, and was he not of the first standing at Eton?"
   The glory and grandeur of the Bengal Club continued uninterrupted with only British membership. In 1959, by virtue of an overwhelming majority vote did the Club favour the membership of Indian nationals. It was only well into 1968 that D.P.M. Kanga became the first Indian President of the Club. "At the Bengal Club, which was once the supreme unofficial headquarters of the Raj and which would never permit an Indian to pollute its membership, they sadly have had to auction their impressive Chowringhee frontage and retreat into reduced circumstances at the back," is Geoffrey Moorhouse's blunt remark in his book Calcutta. Once again times were changing.
   The very existence and future nature of the Bengal Club was under question. Dwindling club funds and the changing Calcutta city composition were contributory factors. Arousing fierce debate among members, in 1970, the palatial club-house of the Bengal Club and its land on Chowringhee was ultimately sold to National and Grindlays Bank Limited. A poignant note appears in the definitive history of the Bengal Club - a book brought out by the Club itself 'The Bengal Club: 1827-1970.' A reprint appeared in 1997. "...oldest Member of the Club, one who had consistently opposed the change, passed away during the Farewell Dinner Dance 'celebrations.' He was at least spared the agony of seeing the demolition of that 'old and noble landmark of Chowringhee Road." One of the finest buildings in all Calcutta has been replaced by the tallest building in all Calcutta - the Chaterjee International Centre. Photographs of the old and sighting the new recall - 'Beauty and the Beast.'
   Entering the portico of today's Bengal Club on Russell Street, one passes a marble plaque placed on the wall. The inscription reads: 'In the House which formerly stood on this site, and was dismantled in 1908, resided Thomas Babington Macaulay, Law Member of the Supreme Council 1834-38.' Crossing the threshold and looking down on the marble floor, one comes across a snake design in the midst of the large marble square flooring. Here lies the crest of the Bengal Club - 'the King Cobra.' During the breaking-down of Macaulay's residence, a king cobra was found on the construction site. Its presence created much consternation.
   In 'Tailpiece' in The Bengal Club: 1827-1970, the presence of an uncommon animal on its august premises has been explained. "The Burra Sahib who was present during the 'puja' declared to the pleasure of everybody that the symbol of the King Cobra would be used as the Club's crest to show respect to the (guardian) of the place." It was a situation of immense sensitivity. And so it came to be that ever since, the form of the King Cobra has graced the Club's napkins, towels, crockery and even planters - redefining tradition.
   One of its long corridors is graced by the presence of a massive Burmese made dinner gong to call members to dinner. I did not hear its sonorous rings. One R. Ellis donated it in 1936. Etchings of nineteenth century Calcutta climb the stairway walls. An open-cage lift marks the stair hall. It appears to be in limited usage. The modern lift installed elsewhere is the more frequent mode of movement. A back-stairway is available for staff members and in an earlier era - tradesmen.
   In the process of shifting from the old Chowringhee Road Club building to the new Russell Street located and reduced Bengal Club, one of its major casualties was the well-endowed Club Library. In the move, some 7,500 rare books were sold. Many of these rarities found their way into private collections. Yet popular opinion speaks of the fine shelves of books that still constitute the Bengal Club Library. My visit only reinforced the viewpoint. In an age where libraries everywhere are short-shifted, here the ambience is one of welcome with comfortable seating areas, good lighting, well-stocked magazine racks and a rack full of truly 'Recent Titles.' My search for old and rare books was gratifying. Highly prized is the brown leather bound with golden inscription volume of The Calcutta Review (Index Vols. 1-50). On the shelf are volumes of The Calcutta Review dating from 1849 to 1863.
   There remain some survivors of the earlier cull of old and rare books. I located The History of the British Empire in India, E. Thornton (Vols. II-VI), 1842; The Works of Roberts Burns (1877) and surely what is tantamount to a rare-rare old book - The Relief of Chitral (1895) written by the two intrepid brothers: Capt. G.J. Younghusband and the more recognised Capt. F.E. Younghusband, an imperial adventurer of the Tibet campaign and an activist in the 'Great Game' between imperial Britain and imperial Russia. Dawn in India: British Purpose and Indian Aspiration by Sir Francis Younghusband appeared in London in 1930. The newly leather bound book has on its spine inscribed: 'Sri F. Younghusband.' In a telling fashion, we have 'British Purpose and Indian Aspiration' in implementation. Other books that caught my eye are Three Frenchmen in Bengal or the Commercial Ruin of the French Settlement in 1757 by S.C. Hall (1903) and The Economic Life of a Bengal District by J.C. Jack of the Indian Civil Service and Royal Field Artillery published in 1916.
   On this closing note I recall the words of Richard Jeffried, curator of Watts Gallery in Compton, Surrey, England. He declares: "You can divide humanity into two halves. Those that can pass a table of second-hand books and those that can't."
   (Concluded)
   Raana Haider researches and writes on global cultural heritage.

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