Penang: the Pearl of Orient

Mohammad Ali Sattar

After the excitement of Kuala Lumpur was over we took our flight to Penang. On the morning of Nov 13 we were on our way to Penang on Malaysian Airlines. The bumpy flight at times gave me the chills. The airbus carrying us had to fly through the clouds. I concentrated more on chewing the cashew nuts offered on board.
   We landed at Penang around 12.30. The day temperature felt the same. Here we were met by a sweet smiling Chinese Malay lady Lena as our guide. Penang looked brighter and cleaner than Kuala Lumpur. It had the touch of tradition and history.
   Penang, 370km from Kuala Lumpur on Malaysia's northwestern coast, is an island state. Everything of interest in Penang State is on Penang Island, locally called Pulau Penang. A large island of 285 square kilometres, it is connected to the mainland by a bridge and by round-the-clock ferry services from Butterworth. The island's capital and Malaysia's second-largest city, Georgetown, is also often referred to as "Penang”.
   We checked in at a five star hotel run by Shangri-la chain. The huge exotic lobby and the smiling staff at the reception greeted us with all their warmth. I felt more homely than in KL.
   
   Penanga had a touch of warmth.
   After lunch we were taken to the Penang Butterfly Farm. A short drive from the hotel, the butterfly farm was all a very natural park though made artifically. The Butterfly Farm is home to over 3,000 living specimen of colorful butterflies and other insects; this
   Butterfly farm also features a lily pond, rock garden, mud pool and waterfalls. I walked around the place with butterflies kissing me all the time, as though swimming in the serene waters of butterflies- a beauty of the creator. Surrounded by the sound and beauty of nature one gets lost to the world of poetry. William Wordsworth would have been the best visitor here eulogizing the setting for his characters.
   On our way out ­ some of us bought a few things which were up for sale, from big framed pictures to smallest key rings - you get all. All with the touch and fragrance of Penang!.
   Situated in Teluk Bahang, the Tropical Spice Gardens, hidden amidst streams and waterfalls, has over 500 exotic varieties of plants. We were greeted by a smiling gentleman, who was our guide to the garden. Before we moved on we were sprinkled with anti-mosquito fluid. The small tour of the perfumed landscape trails of Ginger Walk, Fern Walk, Bamboo Garden, Water Garden and Sugar Terrace was indeed very exciting! You get so near the plants, birds and insects - you get to know them closely.
   Before all could get ready to board the car, I quickly ran across the road and grabbed a cup of local tea at a roadside joint. The afternoon tea was wonderful! for only one Ringit!!
   On our way back, was the Batu Feringgi beach.Situated along the coastal road north-west of Georgetown and lined with a string of international-standard resorts, is the most popular beach in Penang. Soak in the sun or unwind on the beach while you enjoy a host of aquatic thrills from wind-surfing to canoeing. For a spine-tingling adventure, try parasailing to enjoy the view of the beach from the sky. As the sun sets, Batu Feringgi comes alive with a carnival-like atmosphere with an open-air bazaar selling anything from ornate curios to enticing souvenir items.
   We had an exotic dinner at a revolving restaurant situated at the center of the city. The food was marvelous with lots of exquisite choices. The soft music played by the members of the band, added spices to the environment. The outside view was simply a dream. As though we were floating and hovering on a space craft atop the graceful city. The night outside sparkled like jewels.
   The second day at Penang - was as exciting as the first. We started with visit to the - 'Khoo Kingsi'. To the south, in a secluded square at the end of an alleyway off Lebuh Acheh, stands the Khoo Kongsi one of many kongsi, or traditional "clan-houses” in Penang where Chinese families gather to worship their ancestors. The original building was started in 1894 by the Khoo family and meticulously crafted by experts from China. Its central hall is dark with heavy, intricately carved beams and pillars and bulky mother-of-pearl inlaid furniture. The hall on the left is a richly decorated shrine to Tua Peh Kong, the god of prosperity; the right-hand hall contains the gilded ancestral tablets. Connecting all three halls is a balcony minutely decorated in carvings of folk tales.
   Just opposite the sea was the site where Captain Francis Light landed in 1786. It's called 'Fort Cornwallis'.Originally a wooden structure, the fort was rebuilt between
   1808 and 1810. Named after Charles Marquis Cornwallis, a distinguished Governor General of India, the fort was designed to protect the harbor from attacks. Much of the old fort still remains today. The grounds have been converted into a public park with an open air theater; Cannons retrieved by the British from pirates still keep guard over the old fort. Local beliefs have it that infertile women can become fertile by placing flowers in the barrel of the cannon and offering special prayers. The air of history brushes while you walk along the stretches of grass and walkway. The long row of air cooled small rooms displaying the old belongings of the empires and other rulers - for a moment, transports your mind to that time.
   The dinner at an Indian restaurant was hearty. The dimly lit inside had an appetizing environment. We enjoyed the north Indian food and of course the Hindi numbers that were rendered by the three-member band in the house. We were in India!
   The next morning (Nov 15) we did not rush. The smiling Lena was already there at the lobby to greet us. The gentleman, who drove the car carrying us, was also there. After breakfast at the hotel, we set off to meet all the actions. The tour pack was tight. We had to run against time!
   We first visited the Islamic Museum. The small ordinary entrance did not give any hint of history that existed inside. It is housed in the historic Syed Al Attas Mansion which has been built in the 19th century. It boasts of Malay, European and Chinese architectural elements.
   Mainly it highlights the life style of the high class Muslim Malay leaders, their role and contributions towards propagation of Islam. The rooms have a hand written quran, the dresses they wore and things they used.
   We stopped at the Sri Mariamman Temple in the heart of Little India in Georgetown. Sri Mariamman is the oldest and, arguably, most famous Hindu temple in Malaysia. Decorated in the colourful and distinct style of South Indian architecture, the temple is adorned with nearly 40 statuettes of Hindu Gods, Goddesses and sacred animals.
   Next was the Penang Perakanan Mansion . Filled with rich ornate artifacts, art and furniture from China and Europe, this mansion tells the history of the Baba Nyonya people of Penang.
   The next jump was at Cheong Fatt Tze mansion.Built in the 1880s, this famous indigo-blue Chinese Courtyard House in Georgetown was the residence of Cheong Fatt Tze, a prominent Chinese figure in the newly established Penang Straits Settlement during the 19th century. The visit to the Penang Botanic Gardens, also known as "Waterfall Gardens” was yet another experience of natural beauty. This was established by the British in 1884. Previously it was at the foothills of a dense jungle. Today this lush greenery and tranquil setting makes it a favourite park for the locals and a popular tourist attraction. It also serves as a "green lung” for the bustling city of Penang.
   November 16, the day of departure for home. Quick shopping at the China town and Little India made me feel happy. Things of your choice are available at affordable prices. I fell in love with Penang for its beauty, its food and of course the people, so very friendly and caring. Above all the journey was a rewarded with the haunting colonial beauty of the island of Penang. (Concluded)

^ TOP OF THIS PAGE ^ MAIN PAGE